Traveling through Colombia’s remote mountains offers a unique experience, where few paths exist. This was the case when visiting the country’s western region. Colombia hosts approximately 2,000 bird species, more than any other nation. This diversity arises from its varied geography and, unexpectedly, decades of internal conflict. The fighting among the government, guerrillas, paramilitaries, and narco-traffickers left areas untouched, thereby preserving natural habitats.
Since the 2016 peace agreement with the FARC, traveling to these regions has become safer. Birding tourism has surged, contributing millions to Colombia’s economy. Enthusiasts are eager to observe species found nowhere else.
Tatamá National Park, located on the western Andes slope, is a lush rainforest with powerful rivers. The area, one of the wettest on earth, buzzes with bird sounds. Early morning journeys through untouched forests reveal a variety of birds, each with vivid colors and unique names like the Blue-grey tanager and the Purple-throated woodstar.
“Check it out,” said Diego Calderón Franco, a renowned birding guide, pointing out a male violet-tailed sylph. “Look at the tail, it’s so beautiful.”
Diego’s enthusiasm spreads easily. Identifying a velvet-purple coronet, he noted its striking colors. Nearby, hummingbirds fought over territory. Despite their cute appearance, they fiercely compete for resources.
Diego’s deep study allows him to mimic bird calls with ease. He compared guiding in Colombia to Victorian exploration, where new species are still waiting to be discovered.
For decades, violence deterred visitors but also protected bird habitats. Diego once faced the conflict firsthand, being kidnapped by the FARC in 2004. He maintained his sanity by observing birds during captivity, noting first-time sightings on cigarette paper scraps.
After his father paid a ransom, Diego founded a birding tour business. One popular destination is a farm owned by Michelle Tapasco, who repurposed it into the Montezuma Rain Forest Ecolodge. Despite initial skepticism, it’s now thriving thanks to birding visitors.
Colombia’s hummingbirds, over 160 species strong, showcase unique flight abilities. Diego highlighted their wing movement speed, astonishing at 80 times per second.
Plagued by prior conflict, the nation still experiences unrest. Yet, increasing tourist interest offers hope. Former guerrillas find new beginnings through birding, guided by professionals like Diego.
During our visit, we met birders from Los Angeles focused on expanding their life list of bird species seen globally. Their tattooed bodies display favorite sightings.
Finally spotting the elusive Chami Antpitta was a moment of pure presence and joy. Despite overall declining bird populations worldwide, efforts at preserving habitats continue. Michelle works on acquiring more land for conservation, with her daughters pursuing related careers.
Birds have transformed lives in Tatamá National Park, offering healing and connection. For some, they even serve as matchmakers, as shown by Michelle’s daughters marrying birders.
On departure, witnessing the gold-ringed tanager was a rare privilege, its role crucial in seed dispersal and ecosystem maintenance. Such moments in Tatamá are treasured, understanding the chance may never come again.