Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have re-envisioned basic clothing items, originally inspired by jeans, using leather and technical fabrics. This latest collection, showcased during Milan Fashion Week, aims to create menswear not only for fashion insiders but also for everyday people.
Design Philosophy
Prada’s upcoming uniform for the next spring and summer seasons includes slim, cropped jackets and five-pocket trousers. These can be styled with classic blazers or leather blousons. Simons humorously compared the importance of these wardrobe staples to a good pasta pomodoro, a well-known Italian dish.
Despite drawing inspiration from jeans, Prada admitted she has never worn them. Simons recently returned to wearing jeans after two decades of avoiding them in favor of wool trousers. Nonetheless, the duo successfully transformed five-pocket trousers into the signature feature of this collection.
Key Elements
The collection predominantly features rich, soft leather in shades like antique white, gray, burgundy, and turquoise. Accompanying rock guitar riffs added to the show’s atmosphere. Nearly transparent white technical fabric also made an appearance, suitable for Europe’s recent high temperatures. Few pieces were crafted from actual denim.
Cropped shirts and knit vests showcased geometric designs, accessorized with contrasting silk scarves tied at the waist. The collection minimized bags, opting instead for vibrant pouches worn on thick belts. Multiple Velcro-strap shoes completed the outfits.
Back to The Streets
Prada emphasized the desire for a universal collection and criticized what she sees as “useless design” prevalent on many runways. Simons echoed this sentiment, wanting to reconnect fashion with how people genuinely dress. He noted that some of the most powerful fashion ideas historically emerged from everyday streetwear.
Simons described the collection as having a clear silhouette that is vertical, simple, sharp, and proud, focused on the use of white, evoking feelings of peace, hope, and purity. He believes this collection challenges traditional high-fashion perceptions.
The collection debuted in a minimalistic showroom with clear bench seating, ensuring everyone had an excellent view. The VIP section boasted attendees such as NBA star Anthony Edwards, artist Troye Sivan, K-pop group ENHYPEN, and actor Louis Partridge. Enthusiastic fans braved the summer heat to catch a glimpse of their idols.