Summer unofficially concludes on Labor Day for many, even if the calendar suggests otherwise with autumn starting in late September. This day also marks the final overnight passenger journeys for the SS Badger, a historical steam-powered ferry operating on the Great Lakes since 1953. It offers a unique overnight sailing across Lake Michigan, embarking into an absolute darkness unusual for passenger ferries.
During a four-hour trip through the night, passengers often stand on the bow, seeing little more than the running lights of distant ships and faint outlines of clouds. The disorienting experience might make one fantasize about ending up in a different time or place by morning. But dawn sees the ship arriving in Ludington, Michigan.
The SS Badger suspends these overnight trips after Labor Day, resuming in May. It serves as part of U.S. Route 10’s marine stretch, linking Manitowoc, Wisconsin, and Ludington, Michigan. In the quiet Manitowoc, passengers board the ferry at 1:30 a.m., joining a few others aware of this late-night venture.
The ferry’s origins date back to an era of dense rail traffic around Chicago. It was initially designed to carry train cars across the lake, easing railway congestion. Though the need diminished by the 1970s, a businessman named Charles Conrad revived the vessel in the early 1990s as a passenger ferry. It achieved National Historic Landmark status in 2016, a rare honor for a moving entity.
This overnight ferry attracts meteorite enthusiasts and moon watchers who appreciate the unobstructed views offered by Lake Michigan’s dark skies. Truck drivers transporting freight, budget-conscious travelers avoiding hotel costs, and a number of Amish and Mennonite passengers often join as well.
The onboard atmosphere is almost like a scene from ‘The Shining,’ minus the horror. At that hour, the ferry is subdued, with areas like the cafes, playrooms, and video arcade often empty. A small onboard museum featuring historic items is also typically quiet. One might encounter solitary employees, like Timothy Merrick, who finds the tranquility of night shifts perfect.
On the quiet water, travelers find various ways to pass time, some pacing the decks while others relax in the lounges. Private staterooms, though available, are an additional cost, leading many to doze in public areas. Occasionally, the peaceful ambiance is interrupted by stories of hauntings, like that of an elderly woman rumored to haunt a certain cabin.
As the ferry nears Ludington, crew members awaken passengers to prepare for docking. The town’s harbor comes alive as Coast Guard boats guide the vessel in. Upon disembarking, many make their way to the few available open diners before heading back on return trips or to their destinations.