On a visit to Maputo, Mozambique, I experienced the unique charm of the city alongside Vincent Acovino, a fellow producer for All Things Considered. Our primary focus was to cover U.S. funding changes for AIDS in Africa. However, during our journey, something else captured our attention – the architectural wonders created by Amâncio ‘Pancho’ Guedes.
With a few hours at our disposal, we decided to explore Guedes’ designs scattered across the city. Guedes, a Portuguese-born architect, shaped Maputo’s skyline in the 1950s and ’60s. His creations include notable structures like the Prédio Abreu, Santos e Rocha, The Smiling Lion apartment block, and the Lemon Squeezer church. One intriguing example is The Dragon House. Inside, a stairwell mural depicts a spiky dragon with a toothy grin through black and white stone. This mural transforms the otherwise dim stairwell into a captivating space.
Guedes left an impressive legacy of over 500 buildings in Maputo. His designs range from churches to bakeries. The architecture is described as ‘Eclectic Modernist’. His style combines heavy materials with playful shapes and murals. A critic remarked on the fusion of sculptural, figurative elements with practicality and local identity.
Maputo’s landscape will evolve. Not all of Guedes’ work may endure. Nonetheless, discovering his architectural thumbprint in the city was a memorable experience. Riding in an open-air tuk-tuk, seeking out his designs felt like a delightful Easter egg hunt through concrete.