Welcome to Karbala in central Iraq, a city that becomes the center of a massive gathering each year for Arbaeen. This solemn event witnessed earlier this month draws over 20 million Shia Muslims commemorating the martyrdom of Imam Hussein, the Prophet Muhammad’s grandson, an event pivotal to Shia Islam.
Pilgrims converge from across the globe, arriving by air despite the intense August heat exceeding 110 degrees Fahrenheit. Many Iraqi and Iranian devotees undertake a pilgrimage of hundreds of miles on foot to honor this poignant occasion.
Outside the sacred shrines, the city exudes a near-festive atmosphere. Images of Imam Hussein, rendered in poignant styles, adorn walls and are available for purchase. This year, there was an abundance of portraits of Iran’s former supreme leader, Ayatollah Ali Khamenei. Though killed by a U.S. operation in February, he holds the status of a martyr among many Iranians.
The spirit around the pilgrimage is prominently noncommercial. Roads and the vicinity of shrines get lined with hospitality tents long before the event, featuring volunteers offering free meals. From hearty bean stew to succulent grilled chicken, food and water are generously distributed among attendees. It’s not uncommon for locals to welcome pilgrims into their homes, fostering a powerful annual sense of community.