Exosomes have seen a surge within the United States skin care industry. Originating as medical-grade treatments in Korea, they are now expanding into at-home skin care products. Skin care brands are embracing this trend because of the promise of youthful skin, reduced inflammation, and improved overall skin health.
According to Dr. Mona Gohara, a board-certified dermatologist, exosomes are considered valuable for brands aiming for innovation. However, none are FDA approved for cosmetic use. “The potential is real, but regulation hasn’t caught up,” says Gohara.
Understanding Exosomes
Exosomes are small vesicles released by nearly all cell types, including skin, stem, and platelets. They carry proteins, lipids, and genetic material. Acting as delivery vehicles, they transport proteins, growth factors, and microRNA that help regulate cellular behavior. In skin care, exosomes enhance cell communication and guide skin cells to interact more effectively.
They aid in calming inflammation, repairing tissue, and boosting collagen and elastin production, which diminish with age. “They function like a high-tech signaling system coordinating skin regeneration,” says Gohara. Dr. Asmi Berry notes that exosomes influence gene expression to reprogram skin cells for a youthful appearance.
Exosome Products
Typically found in serums, exosomes penetrate deeply and are stable in low-water formulas. While available in moisturizers, these may lessen their efficacy.
Best Exosome Serums:
- Best Overall: Plated’s serum contains human-derived exosomes, making it more effective than plant-based ones. Suitable for targeting redness, inflammation, and fine lines. It includes hyaluronic acid and antioxidants. Utilize daily after cleansing.
- Best Balm for Sensitive Skin: Skinfix’s baume combines exosomes with ectoin to hydrate and strengthen sensitive skin barriers. Recommended for soothing and resilience.
- Best Value: The Inkey List provides budget-friendly plant-derived exosome serum boosting collagen production. Suitable for combining with other sensitive skin-friendly products.
- Best Splurge-Worthy: Exosome Face Lift from 111Skin offers a two-step treatment with noticeable lifting results within weeks.
- Microneedling Alternative: Medicube’s serum offers an OTC option to microneedling, with microscopic, needle-like structures coated in exosomes enhancing skin texture.
- Mature Skin Option: The Dr. Barbara Sturm serum, despite its high price, targets mature skin with lab-derived exosomes and vitamin E.
FDA Approval and Safety
No exosome product currently has FDA approval. While they appear safe in over-the-counter formulas, cosmetic products don’t need approval to market. Nonetheless, brands should adhere to laws and regulations. NYC cosmetic dermatologist Michele Green advises using reputable brands clear about their ingredients.
Exosome Therapy
Exosome therapy involves applying serums derived from human stem cells alongside treatments like microneedling or laser resurfacing. While potentially effective, safety concerns exist, such as irritation and infections. Dermatologists advise using over-the-counter serums from reputable brands for home use.
The Effectiveness of Exosomes
Exosomes, promising as they are, may not revolutionize skin care. Dr. Corey L. Hartman notes insufficient research comparing them with verified regenerative ingredients like retinol and peptides. Dr. Berry emphasizes the potential of medical-grade exosome skin care for supporting healing and rejuvenation.
Cosmetic topicals don’t undergo FDA testing, making their effectiveness unclear. Quality control is vital to maintaining exosome stability in formulas.
Combining Exosomes with Other Ingredients
Most exosome products can be applied daily, improving skin texture over time. Results are typically visible within a week. They work well with active ingredients like retinol and vitamin C. “Exosomes aren’t replacements for gold-standard ingredients,” says Berry.
Those with mature skin can benefit most, given decreased inflammation reduction and collagen production with age. Yet, under safety concerns, pregnant or breastfeeding individuals should avoid exosomes.
Expert Opinions
For this piece, several well-regarded dermatologists contributed their expertise regarding the effects and benefits of exosomes in skin care.
As the industry continues to evolve, more insights into exosome stability and efficacy will emerge, shaping their role in skin care.