Cole’s, one of Los Angeles’ oldest dining establishments and the rumored originator of the French dip sandwich, closed its doors on March 29. The closure left many, including chef and entrepreneur Jeremy Fall, mourning its loss. Fall, who grew up nearby, is now spearheading efforts to reopen the iconic restaurant.
Established in 1908, Cole’s Pacific Electric Buffet was famous for its carved-meat sandwiches served to Red Car commuters. It later became a celebrated bar frequented by notable figures like Mickey Cohen and Charles Bukowski. Starting in early August, Fall and Sean Maloney, former chief hospitality officer of Mozza Restaurant Group, commenced efforts to give Cole’s a new lease on life, aiming for a potential reopening by next month.
The sale process began more than a year ago, driven by financial difficulties faced by the previous owner, Pouring With Heart hospitality group. Challenges included pandemic-related losses, strikes in the entertainment industry, and rising labor costs. Support from Los Angeles residents delayed Cole’s final closure until this spring.
“I grew up downtown, so closing Cole’s, such an important landmark, was really disheartening,” Fall explained. “When Pouring With Heart approached me, I realized I needed to try and keep Cole’s alive.”
Fall and Maloney currently hold a temporary liquor license as they await full approval to complete the sale. They aim to reopen Cole’s by mid to late November. The duo plans to enhance the menu significantly to draw more guests downtown, adding new culinary offerings alongside traditional favorites.
Maloney stated, “I want Cole’s to be sustainable and lasting.” This endeavor marks his first restaurant ownership, despite his prior experience opening 11 other establishments. “Los Angeles has been good to me, and I want to give back by ensuring Cole’s endures.” The reopened Cole’s will feature the classic French dips and cocktails, including Cole’s famed atomic mustard with a new recipe. Additionally, it will offer white tablecloth service, pasta, and an extended selection of sauces.
Maintaining Cole’s historic charm remains a priority. Since taking over in August, Fall and Maloney have made targeted restorations, such as adding vintage elements while maintaining important historical details. The booth favored by Mickey Cohen stays, and plaques like “Charles Bukowski pissed here” remain to honor the institution’s legacy.
The new head chef, Daniel Nguyen, formerly of Osteria Mozza and Lolo Wine Bar, will lead the kitchen. He will introduce items like fresh ravioli, prime rib frites, and salmon with trout roe, preserving Cole’s tradition of innovation. Nguyen’s take on the French dip uses dry-brined prime rib with a rich 24-hour au jus. Pastrami and vegan mushroom options expand the offerings.
Clark Street Bread is testing a custom sandwich roll to balance classic and contemporary styles, complementing Cole’s history and essence. “Cole’s is part of Los Angeles’ identity,” stated Jesse Furman, Clark Street’s culinary director.
Fall’s previous ventures, including Nighthawk and the upcoming New York location of Drugstore, reflect his commitment to making Cole’s the best. Both Fall and Maloney argue that Cole’s was the birthplace of the French dip. They view the debate with Philippe’s as a friendly rivalry.
The revitalized Cole’s drink menu will feature traditional and innovative recipes, like an au jus-washed martini. A key question concerns the former space of the Varnish cocktail bar; Fall and Maloney are reserving it for private dining for now.
Cedd Moses intended to find owners who would honor Cole’s heritage. Under his leadership, Cole’s thrived despite the eventual closure of Pouring With Heart’s restaurant endeavors in L.A. Moses remains optimistic about the restaurant’s future, noting the area’s signs of revival.
Moses emphasized, “Cole’s still holds a special place in people’s hearts.” He believes the resurgence of interest during Cole’s initial closure bodes well. Moses values finding newcomers with a deep personal connection to continue the legacy. He expects to be a regular supporter of Cole’s, emphasizing, “We all feel a responsibility to keep it alive.”