Ice cream was once a rare luxury. Its scarcity was due to the challenge of keeping ice from melting. In 1790, President George Washington spent $200 on ice cream during summer. Adjusted for today’s value, that’s $7,259, as reported by the International Dairy Foods Association.
By the 1800s, mechanical refrigeration and other inventions reduced ice cream’s cost, making it more accessible. Street vendors needed a way to serve it to customers without it melting.
Penny Licks and Their Discontents
Eager patrons bought a scoop of ice cream in a thick glass for a penny, then licked it clean before returning it. This practice was unhygienic and posed health risks due to unwashed glass. Fear of disease and frequent breakages led to London banning these ‘penny licks’ in 1898.
Enter Edible Cups
In 1902, Italian born Antonio Valvona patented a mold for making edible waffle cups. He began selling these cups in both Europe and America. Thus, a more sanitary alternative to penny licks had emerged.
The following year, in New York, Italo Marchiony secured a patent for a similar device. He later developed the popular ice-cream sandwich.
The Birth of the Cone at the World’s Fair
The 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair marked a turning point for ice-cream cones. Several vendors claimed to have invented it, but Joy Baking Group recognized Ernest Hamwi, a Syrian immigrant, as the originator. When his neighbor ran out of cups, Hamwi rolled pastries into cones, instantly popularizing ice cream ‘cornucopias.’
By 1910, the term ‘cornucopia’ had simply become ‘cone.’ Hamwi founded the Missouri Cone Co., and technology soon automated cone production. The lighter cake cone arrived in the early 1940s, coinciding with Dairy Queen and Baskin-Robbins’ rise.
Modern Consumption Trends
Ice cream remains a beloved treat, although consumption has declined. In 1984, Americans consumed an average of 17.8 pounds of ice cream annually. By 2024, this dropped to 12 pounds, reflecting a shift towards health-conscious choices.
Yet, as George Washington and modern enthusiasts agree, ice cream remains a favorite, especially on warm nights.
This article is part of the “American Objects” series celebrating the 250th anniversary of the United States.