In the heart of Kochi, India’s storied Jew Town, the setting sun marks the beginning of Shavuot for Keith Hallegua. He places a gray kippah on his head and sets out to the Paradesi Synagogue, a hallmark of Jewish history, aged over 450 years. Hallegua prays alone, reckoning with the absence of a minyan, the requisite ten male presence for communal services.
Across the city, Elias ‘Babu’ Josephai recalls his grandmother’s ‘chukkunda,’ fried dough balls that were once a staple for Shavuot. The nostalgia brings tears, highlighting a poignant yearning for days gone by. Both Hallegua and Josephai epitomize the dedication to preserving the remnants of a once-thriving Jewish community in Kochi. In the 1950s, most Cochin Jews, as they were known, relocated to Israel, leaving behind their cultural edifices and ancestral graves.
Despite this exodus, Hallegua and Josephai chose to remain. They are now the final custodians of a heritage that traces back centuries. The Cochin Jews lived peacefully amidst Hindu, Muslim, and Christian neighbors, free from antisemitism. Yet, the community encountered internal challenges linked to class and colorism. Hallegua, a Paradesi Jew, descends from Sephardic ancestors who escaped the Spanish Inquisition, but their history is shadowed by class divides with the Meshuchrarim Jews. Josephai, from the Malabari Jews, is part of an ancient lineage dating back over 2,000 years, having faced historical discrimination from Paradesi Jews.
Despite these past divisions, both men are united in safeguarding their shared legacy. Josephai has labored to restore the Kadavumbagam Synagogue, a solitary bastion of Malabari Jewish worship. Walking these hallowed halls, he laments the once vibrant presence of congregants now largely gone. In a similar vein, Hallegua remains devoted to the Paradesi Synagogue, where tourists often help fulfill services by meeting the required quorum.
Kochi’s Paradesi Synagogue, a testament to rich Jewish tradition, draws numerous visitors. M.C. Praveen, a Hindu trustee, is dedicated to preserving its history. Having grown up in Jew Town, Praveen cherishes ties with Hallegua’s family. Additionally, Shulamit Kotzer, a native who now resides in Israel, aspires to deepen her cultural ties to Kochi by opening a hotel there. These efforts extend beyond religious bounds, evidenced by a new museum spotlighting Kochi’s Jewish heritage, complete with historic artifacts.
Non-Jewish locals also champion this cause. Thaha Ibrahim, a Muslim, maintains the embroidery legacy of the late Sarah Cohen, lighting Shabbat candles and keeping her store on Synagogue Lane closed on Saturdays. Ibrahim emphasizes the import of human connection over religious differences, while Josephai shoulders the responsibility of maintaining the Kadavumbagam Synagogue’s heritage, bolstered by interfaith support.
Josephai continues to preserve the synagogue, nestled behind his shop where he sells aquarium supplies. He has pledged to keep its flame alive in memory of his past and for future generations. Meanwhile, Hallegua reflects on the indelible bond with his birthplace. Though his memories dim, his commitment to dying as he lived—a Jew in India—remains unwavering.