The biopic Tony explores the early years of the famous culinary expert Anthony Bourdain. The film, set over a brief summer period, offers viewers a glimpse into Bourdain’s formative experiences working in a Cape Cod restaurant in 1975. Yet, the movie leaves audiences wanting more, presenting a version of Bourdain that feels incomplete.
Directed by Matt Johnson, who also co-wrote the script, the film aims to capture Bourdain’s journey from an inexperienced youth to someone slightly less naïve. Unfortunately, it fails to fully portray the iconic personality known for travel shows like Parts Unknown. One wonders why Bourdain serves as the film’s focal point when the story only skims his transformation.
Dominic Sessa takes on the role of the young Bourdain, portrayed as a socially awkward and intense figure. His demeanor remains mostly serious, void of visible moments of joy. Even vivid events, such as the summer night fishing frenzies mentioned in Bourdain’s autobiography Kitchen Confidential, do not bring a sense of wonder to his character.
Bourdain’s time in Provincetown, Massachusetts, holds significant weight in his life story, highlighted in both his memoir and television appearances. Yet, focusing too much on this period weakens the film’s impact. The movie begins with an introspective quote from Kitchen Confidential, reflecting Bourdain’s younger, reckless self who starts as a dishwasher before advancing to more complex kitchen tasks.
Throughout this summer, Bourdain develops two loves: cooking, with its unique pressures and camaraderie, and drug use, noting in Parts Unknown that he purchased his first bag of heroin during this time. Despite these influences, the film struggles to illustrate how Bourdain evolved into a globetrotting storyteller.
The narrative introduces a fictional mentor, played by Antonio Banderas, who adds unnecessary layers to Bourdain’s story. While he presents a mix of spirituality and discipline, the character falls short of capturing the gritty reality described in Bourdain’s writing. Despite the attempt to position younger Bourdain as an inspiration, the portrayal lacks depth.
Additionally, the film fails to ignite the passion Bourdain felt for cuisine’s transformative abilities. With references like oysters tasting of the future
, the portrayal does not capture the vivid enthusiasm found in Bourdain’s works.
The movie offers some engaging moments, particularly in scenes involving Emilia Jones and Leo Woodall, who play pivotal roles in Bourdain’s personal and professional life. Eric Ripert, a longtime friend of Bourdain, also makes a notable cameo.
While biopics focusing on select life segments have become increasingly popular, Tony falls short as an origin story. Missing key elements of Bourdain’s journey, it disappoints those hoping for a deeper dive into his early influences.
Tony, released by A24, began its theatrical journey on August 7 in Los Angeles and New York, with a broader release on August 21. It is rated R by the Motion Picture Association due to strong language, drug use, and sexual content. The film’s runtime is 106 minutes, earning a rating of two out of four stars.