In early June, an investigative story was published, focusing on Mark McAfee, the proprietor of America’s largest raw-milk dairy, as America’s approach to raw milk shifted under new government policies. The investigation highlighted the politicization of scientific topics within federal health agencies. Under Health Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr.’s leadership, the raw milk policy aligned with his advocacy. McAfee, who has been promoting raw dairy for over two decades, has seen raw milk gain in popularity, with over 10 million Americans consuming it and sales rising by 65% from 2023 to 2024. McAfee’s farm earns around $30 million yearly but faces scrutiny due to links to numerous recalls and outbreaks that have caused illnesses.
Despite raw milk’s popularity, the risks associated with it remain significant. Most health experts agree that unpasteurized milk offers no proven nutritional advantages over pasteurized milk and poses a higher risk of foodborne illness. Raw milk consumption is especially risky for young children. Mark McAfee argues that consumer stories about health improvements stand as evidence for raw milk’s benefits, despite the scientific consensus. His customers often believe in the benefits of raw milk, even though the government has not invested extensively in researching these claims.
“I’m begging you to say: ‘This is not anti-science, this is extremely pro-science. … It’s using science that is not conveniently accepted yet.”
Since 2006, McAfee’s farm has been linked to at least eight outbreaks, with more than 233 people affected, and 40 hospitalized. One significant case involved a 7-year-old, Chris Martin, who suffered kidney damage after contracting E. coli from raw milk. Despite implementing standards to reduce risks, contamination from deadly bacteria is still an inherent issue in raw dairy.
In 2024, the FDA discovered that McAfee’s farm had a practice of making cheese from milk known to contain pathogens, although McAfee claimed compliance with federal regulations by aging and testing the cheese. Between 2023 and 2024, one of the largest outbreaks linked to the farm involved over 170 people sickened by salmonella. Enforcement against the farm was stalled due to political changes and a delayed court case.
“They have the guns and the money. I got the truth and the moms.”
Despite controversies, McAfee’s advocacy and consumer education efforts have bolstered raw milk sales. The farm was involved in yet another outbreak shortly after the investigation visit, with nine people infected across multiple states. New practices at the farm claim not to use milk with pathogens for cheese production anymore, although earlier statements suggested otherwise. The FDA closed its investigation without action, and raw cheese products returned to stores.